For reference, here is the <Template></Template> that is correctly working for another column in the same grid.
<GridColumn HeaderText="" Width="150" AllowEditing="false">
<Template>
@{
var lineItem = (context as OrderLineItem);
}
<button class="btn btn-outline-primary btn-sm" type="button" title="Increase qty by 1"
@onclick="@(_ => { if (context != null) HandleQtyIncrease(lineItem);})">
<span class="fas fa-plus"></span>
</button>
<button class="btn btn-outline-primary btn-sm" type="button" title="Decrease qty by 1"
@onclick="@(_ => { if (context != null) HandleQtyDecrease(lineItem);})">
<span class="fas fa-minus"></span>
</button>
@if (lineItem.Quantity > 0)
{
<button class="btn btn-outline-danger btn-sm" type="button" title="Reset qty to 0"
@onclick="@(_ => { if (context != null) HandleQtyClear(lineItem);})">
<span class="fas fa-times"></span>
</button>
}
</Template>
</GridColumn>